Caravane Palace

35706 RENNES

11.5/20
Gourmet Restaurant

6 PHOTOS

Chef Noémie Cadré

Cooking French | Modern | Street food

Gault&Millau's review

11.5/20

Gourmet Restaurant It's a bohemian cuisine that, as the name suggests, is very much on the move. In fact, at lunchtime, we're in street-food mode. But in the evenings, from Thursday onwards, we settle in without betraying Noémie Cadré's universe. The room, not very large, is warm and inviting: brick, stone, wood, old-fashioned lighting, empty bottles as candleholders or vases... There's even a touch of the baroque, with a sort of "circus crate" at the entrance, violins hanging from the ceiling... You can observe the kitchen, where logs are being consumed to meet the promise of "100% wood-fired" cooking (admittedly, the clothes can still slightly testify to this, once outside!). As if echoing this heat, the Brazilian music that floods the room responds with sensuality. Scrupulous in her ultra-local sourcing, you can sense that Noémie is having fun in the kitchen with, for example, this enigmatic crab "caviar" (actually made from a concentrate of this species of crab and a gelling agent) which boosts two lightly grilled asparagus flanked by a soft mayonnaise. Then there's a siphon of "raclette cheese" topped with button mushrooms, topped with a garlic paste (well done) and sorrel gel for acidity. It's a pretty good idea. As for the pork chop, it took its time to cook gently, gently, gently. A nice potato purée will suffice as an accompaniment. Before drawing the curtain, don't miss the rather dense chocolate mousse, in harmony with notes of coffee, a few hazelnuts and a slice of grilled lemon. The smiling service is very relaxed, and the wine list (mainly "nature") contains less than 10 suggestions: menetou-salon by Philippe Gilbert, wines from the Gazeau-Baldi house, saint-chinian Madivin, roussillon from domaine Léonine...

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