A beautiful old building in the heart of the city, a relatively little-frequented alleyway for a table well worth a few meters away from the crowd. For there's a chef on the scene who's worth his hat, and proves it with every service. This is particularly true of the well-executed menu, which combines the present with products that have just arrived or have been farmed well: marinated raw mullet with carrot confit and white cabbage with yoghurt, roasted buckwheat octopus with cauliflower and parsnip cream, lamb chakchouka with sumac and ewe's milk cheese... Four-course menu at €43.