Bombance

35000 RENNES

12.5/20
Gourmet Restaurant

Cooking French | Local | Modern

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

35€

Gault&Millau's review

12.5/20

Gourmet Restaurant Welcome to our website! Have you made a reservation? A warm, relaxed welcome. No etiquette! Or rather, yes! Labels aplenty, bottles aplenty! Good, light, tannic, surprising, maybe even "deviant" on occasion: this is the Rennes spot for organic and largely "natural" wine. At the helm: Pierre Hollerich, a seasoned sommelier who aims to thrill his customers with fine references (Patrick Bouju, Jérôme Lambert's Loire Valley wine, Yohann Moreno's Corbières, Domaine Prieuré Roch's Burgundy, Bruno Duchène's Roussillon, the Soulier brothers' Gard wine...). The small room is charmingly simple: wooden floor, light ceiling, stone wall, bistro-style tables and chairs, soft lighting... As you enter, you come straight into the small open kitchen, protected by a beautiful rounded light-wood counter where a few place settings are also laid out. For added privacy, there's even a private area in the basement. In the kitchen, experienced chef Gaëtan Coculo (formerly head chef at L'Avant-Poste in Paris) plays a no-holds-barred style that's neither overly planar nor oblivious to fashion trends. It's rhythmic and the frequent renewal of the menu is in the DNA of the house. Plates can be shared or offered as a single, well-calibrated menu. On this particular day, the starter was a lovely, unctuous farmhouse cream from Ille au Pré (35), contrasted with fermented white asparagus. This was followed by a visually appetizing dish in the form of pork tenderloin from a "local" and organic breeder, skilfully cooked with whey-glazed carrot, candied kumquat, sea urchin cremeux and shallot pickles. The cooking juices, which are full of character, are tempered with parsley oil. The whole is lively and delicious. The dessert is sharp, not to say sharp. It combines rhubarb, beet, pimento, fine gavotte and crème montée. The challenge of pairing it with a wine was well met! Fast, cheerful service!