In a short space of time, this well-placed bistro has aged the institutions of the square a little, bringing a cheerful, new tone to the exercise. A no-holds-barred menu that combines burgers and mussels marinière, terrines, oysters, foie gras with pommeau and the burrata of the moment, seafood sauerkraut and tajine-style poultry. The atmosphere, friendly service and central location do the rest.