Alan Geaam (who earned three "toques" at his eponymous restaurant in the 16ᵉ arrondissement of Paris) has always found the right people to oversee this venerable auberge, where he himself took his first steps as a chef nearly twenty years ago. Following in the footsteps of Grégory Garimbay, Émile de France is now the man behind the stoves at this address, which was founded by Nicolas Flamel in the early 15th century. After a few months of breaking in, Sylvestre Wahid's former sous-chef at Thoumieux seems to have found his place and the right diet, distilling dishes that are now worthy of two fine toques (scallops and cauliflower, st. Pierre, endives, clams and samphire before an airy, gourmet blancmange with citrus and red shiso) to a clientele visibly delighted and almost astonished to enjoy cuisine that is both modern and warm in such a historic setting. Attentive service and a cellar that knows how to think outside the box.