One of those useful and practical inns where you never forget your sense of duty or tradition. At the traffic circle between Brignoles and Rocbaron, it's easy to stop and park, the hostess welcomes you with ease, and the service responds with the right classic codes. All this is very reassuring, as are the solidly priced menus, the affluence of the locals consolidating confidence, and rightly so, in this well-polished cuisine: velvety chestnuts from Collobrières, marrow bones and blood, with toast from Fournil du Pilou, lean meat from Corsica and organic lentils from Rocbaron with champagne sauce, suckling pig rib with Robuchon purée and mushrooms, and imposing profiterole-style cabbage with chocolate sauce, in a well-executed €62 menu. Good cellar of local wines.