The exceptional location in the Passage des Panoramas does much, but not everything. The bistro's decor is rather classical, the small tables on the alley promise a fine Parisian experience, and the kitchens deliver a respectable French tradition: Provençal-style frogs' legs, onion soup au gratin, filet of royal sea bream, roasted fennel and sauce vierge, entrecote steak and pommes frites, bourbon vanilla crème brûlée..