Arbane

51100 REIMS

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

8 PHOTOS

Chef Philippe Mille

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine

Services Disabled access | Garden | Private Parking | Valet parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

80€ à 290€

Gault&Millau's review

16/20

Remarkable Restaurant It was the most important announcement of this year's gastronomic season in Reims: Philippe Mille's departure from Crayères, where he had worked for almost fifteen years, and his move to a new location, the beautiful Art Nouveau pavilion where the CG restaurant once stood. The decor was entirely conceived and designed by the chef with the help of his designers and artists: numerous references to wine and Champagne, use of evocative materials, barrel staves, glass, wood, cork for the furniture and works of art in a very successful ensemble. As for the plate, what do you expect? Philippe hits the nail on the head, of course, with his MOF know-how and long experience, acquired alongside Frédéric Anton, Michel Roth and Yannick Alléno, among others: a score to the chord, great precision in seasoning, textures and pairings. Naturally, it all sounds a little (a lot) prestigious for a red guide, with lobster and caviar, while waiting for the months with truffles, at prices that keep the prowlers away. But, failing to feature in the 109 (new blood) de la gastronomie 2024, Philippe Mille brings to the town, the department and the region a superb new table for connoisseurs. We're off to a strong start with "l'Arbanothèque", seven appetizers evoking, through their ingredients (cucumber, rhubarb, beet...), the fragrances and characteristics of the different species.), the flavors and characteristics of the seven champagne grape varieties, followed by superb langoustine carpaccio with crunchy peas, a lightly creamy bisque and crispy wine to support the texture, turbot "viandardized" with sliced beef tongue, chanterelles and almonds in a mushroom bouillon with tagetes oil, lobster with zucchini flower stuffed with light American eggplant with elderflower... We fold up this beautiful affair with a well-thought-out land-sea (beef, knife, green beans) and a serious, fresh strawberry dessert. A unifying cellar that is still developing, naturally focused on Champagne-Burgundy, well aligned with the competition in terms of both content and prices, served by well-trained, smiling and skilful young people.