Anona

Rating: 13
Author: Gault&Millau

80 Boulevard des Batignolles, 75017 Paris, France

13/20
Chef's Restaurant

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8 PHOTOS

Location: Paris
Chef: Thibaut Spiwack
Cooking: French | Local | Modern | Signature cuisine
Services: Access for people with disabilities
Style: Romantic, With friends

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

49 to 185

Gault&Millau's review 2026

13/20

Chef's Restaurant

In the Batignolles neighborhood, a former "Top Chef" contestant has opened his restaurant on the corner of the boulevard. The bottle-green and mouse-gray color scheme is very striking… and the atmosphere is quite welcoming. It’s a “hot spot” for Instagrammers and other fans of these talented chefs, who at least deserve credit for starting their own businesses: Thibaut Spiwack is the chef—active, present, and deeply engaged with his guests. He’ll quickly offer you his short wine list. It features all the top appellations, at Parisian prices (the wine by the glass is served in stingy pours). The restaurant offers two “hidden” set menus, priced at 130 and 150 €. The courses come one after another; we’ll long remember that roasted and toasted eryngii mushroom with a coffee emulsion and walnut oil. The layer-by-layer celery topped with a creamy Madagascar vanilla sauce is also an invitation to travel. However, some very daring pairings—such as the beet-passion fruit duo or the Camargue risotto accompanied by a trio of cheeses—didn’t quite live up to expectations. The lovely pear and shiso desserts, along with the granola with roasted hazelnuts, brought the meal to a sweet and indulgent close. A roller-coaster of a dinner that alternated between delightful surprises and minor disappointments, yet featured cuisine that was nonetheless healthy and thoughtfully crafted.