International
Bernard LERAY
Chef : 1 restaurant
When I was 10, all I could think about was being a chef," says Bernard Leray, "but at school I was good at math. His parents decided to steer him towards a scientific career. Fortunately, his godfather came to his rescue and enrolled him in the brand-new private Lycée Hôtelier in Saint-Méen-le-Grand (Ille-et-Vilaine). Happy as a clam, he completed his internship at Le Royal in Evian.
Motivated to work, the young man decided to stop his studies and get down to work. His seasonal experience at L'Alpenrose, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, led him to join Bernard Loiseau at La Côte d'Or. "He nicknamed me Nardo and told me that, if I wanted to set up my own business, I should aim for the Côte d'Azur or Alsace."
He moved closer to Alsace to help out Philippe Bohrer at La Ville de Lyon, where he met his wife Martine. In 1986, the two lovebirds moved to the brand-new Mas des Sources in Malataverne (Drôme). On Bernard Loiseau's recommendation, Bernard Leray was appointed head chef, in the expectation of great rewards. The gamble paid off, with Gault&Millau awarding him 2 toques at the age of just 25.
After a short stint in Anjou, the couple decided to raise their daughters in Alsace. In 1995, they bought a former coaching inn located between Gérardmer and Colmar, and transformed it into the Nouvelle Auberge, a family-run bistro that over time evolved into a gourmet restaurant. "At first,we just wanted to work and do things simply. Gault&Millau quickly rewarded them with 2 toques, and the third arrived in 2023. While Bernard Leray never forgets his Breton origins, which he distills into his dishes in small doses, he is proud of his roots in the Munster valley: "I don't speak Alsatian, but I cook Alsatian!"
B. G.
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