Un chef, un artisan: Ilane Tinchant and Jordan Ortiz, the last bottarga producer in Martigues

The meeting between these two children of the Mediterranean was an obvious one. On one side, Jordan Ortiz, the last fisherman to perpetuate the tradition of the calen de Martigues (traditional fixed fishery), he is the guardian of the family know-how around bottarga. On the other, Ilane Tinchant, a passionate young chef, whose sunny, sincere and local cuisine is rooted in the Mediterranean coast. Together, they're putting poutargue in the spotlight to showcase their unique terroir.

Jordan, you "fell into bottarga" as a child...

Jordan Ortiz: You could say that. originally, the Calen de Martigues was an association of four fishermen, including my father and my uncle. So yes, bottarga has always been part of my life. I was brought up with it, before taking over the calen in 2018. The other two owners have gone out of business, and haven't found any takers, so I'm the last one with my partner.

Not only are you the last, but your fishing and manufacturing methods are also unique.

J. O.: Our system is the only fixed fishery of its kind left in the world. A century ago, there were a dozen calens between Martigues and Port-de-Bouc. Today, we're the only ones left to perpetuate calen fishing. The installation consists of a net, the calen, which is raised by a mechanical winch installed on the quay. The mussels are then picked up by hand, using the strength of your arms, in a barquerolle, a small rowing boat. When we catch the fish, it's still swimming, so there's less stress for the animal and the female doesn't shed blood on the eggs. the result is better quality bottarga after drying.

Your paw is easy to recognize.

J. O. : The little piece of dried muge on our bottarga is our trademark. It holds the roe in place throughout the whole process, from salting to drying. Our regular customers recognize our product thanks to it. The other distinguishing feature of our poutargue is its origin. The Mediterranean Sea gives it a unique taste.

With fish caught in the Chenal de Caronte and processed just a stone's throw away, it's hard to get more local. Ilane, was it important for you to work with this regional product?

Ilane Tinchant: I grew up near Martigues, its historic region. When I was growing up, my father used to make bottarga pasta on Sundays. at the aperitif, there was sausage, but also poutargue with olive oil bread. It seemed obvious to work with it in my restaurant. When I heard about Jordan's production through a mutual acquaintance, it was a revelation. His bottarga is different: very delicate, it has a real taste signature and stays on the palate for a long time.

office Tourisme Martigues - Serge Tsakiropoulos

How do you go about incorporating it into your menu?

I. T. : It brings a natural, iodized and powerful seasoning that fits in with my Mediterranean cuisine. I use very little salt, butter or cream - olive oil and seafood do the rest. I recently prepared a bouillabaisse-style red mullet confit with candied peppers, capers, olives and bottarga. All natural salty elements from Provence, to enhance the dish.

Jordan, how do you feel about a local chef, renowned for his cuisine, highlighting your bottarga in this way?

J. O. : I'm used to eating it plain with a piece of bread, but of course it's great. More people should follow his example, because a lot of restaurateurs use the local name, even though their poutargue comes from Brazil.

office de Tourisme Martigues - Serge Tsakiropoulos / Nicolas Aneston

How do you both see the future?

J. O.: We've only been working together since the beginning of the summer, so it's only the beginning. When he came to see the fishing facility, I also talked to him about several products such as blue crab, an invasive but delicious species, snails, smoked eel...other local fish and shellfish are excellent and interesting to develop, especially as the muge fishery is getting worse and worse.

I. T.: Working with people who are passionate about their work, from producers to collaborators, is the basis of my philosophy. I don't feel like I'm "working": cooking is part of my daily routine. Jordan and I share the same attachment to our region. He wants his fishery to be recognized, while I want to showcase it through my creations. We share the same desire: to make our region shine.