What are the criteria for being nominated for the Gault&Millau Trophées de l'Année?

as the annual Gault&Millau awards ceremony approaches, excitement is building around the prestigious prizes. A real highlight of the Guide Jaune, this year's awards ceremony highlights the men and women who shape French gastronomy. Marc Esquerré, Director of Guides and Surveys, takes a behind-the-scenes look at the history and philosophy of these awards, and the criteria behind the nomination of the winning talents. A whole year of investigations, memorable encounters and emotion is revealed.

What do the Trophées de l'Année represent for Gault&Millau?

All today's awards were created as we went along. They truly follow the DNA of Gault&Millau: discovery, highlighting new talent and evaluating established talent. We have always valued great cuisine, with the Cuisinier de l'Année award since 1980, but also emerging talents, with the Grand de Demain and Jeune Talent awards, which appeared a few years later. Then, the titles of Pastry Chef of the Year and Sommelier of the Year were added to the list. These are specialties in their own right, and deserve to be highlighted. We also salute the work that goes into organizing the dining room, with the Dining Room Manager of the Year trophy.

What role do they play in the guide's philosophy?

This list represents the work of Gault&Millau over a whole year of visits, comments and survey grids that determine these trophies. For 50 years, one of Gault&Millau's mantras has been the human link. With customers, of course, but also with their teams. When you go to a restaurant, you have an experience. It's not just a moment, it's got to be something! That's what we reward.

What part does the bill or the experience on the ground play in the decision?

Meals and experiences count enormously in the final score. But we also reward a moment in a career, notably for the Cook of the Year. For the Grand of Tomorrow, it's about confirming a great discovery. The Jeune Talent represents a discovery made during the year.

How many people take part in the final deliberations?

It's the Gault&Millau select committee, i.e. the management team, including Patrick Hayoun, Chairman and CEO of Gérnaral, and myself as Representative of the Investigators.

What role does objectivity play in an inevitably subjective choice?

It's both subjective and, I might even say, political. Gault&Millau is also a medium and a company. When you dedicate someone, that's obviously very important. Choosing solely on the basis of scores would be reductive. Survey grids only represent snapshots in time. It's not a question of favouritism, but of having a list that represents the best talents of the year. For the last three years, we've had nominees, and that's an important point: when we announce them, we don't yet know who's going to win. This is followed by exchanges with the investigators and correspondents, which help to confirm or invalidate the collegial decision.

Have the criteria changed in recent years, particularly with the arrival of new generations of chefs?

In the dining room and in the kitchen, professions evolve and so do the criteria. The sommelier profession, for example, has changed a lot. It used to be very ceremonial, whereas today we prefer sommeliers who listen to their customers, remain natural and make suggestions without ostracism. As for the floor manager, he must empathize with his teams and bring them together. As for the kitchen, it has evolved considerably. I'd say that today, you have to be respectful. We won't crown a chef if he doesn't respect the seasons - which is obvious today - if he doesn't respect the products, if he doesn't respect the producers and his teams...

A word for chefs who dream of one day being nominated for a Trophée de l'Année?

It seems obvious... But it's the path that's important, not the goal. You don't try to be a Chef or Young Talent of the Year, you become one. You have to pass each stage.