Why are amphoras so popular?
8,000 years old, terracotta containers have conquered the cellars of French wineries. Why such success?
Oblong jars grow between the stainless steel barrels and vats of French estates. in Bordeaux, among a crew of wooded containers, terracotta has made its way, and a few pieces are sometimes used to prove to visitors its modernity.
Yet amphorae are nothing new - the term "amphora" being in fact a linguistic shorthand for earthenware containers, we're more likely to speak of jars than amphorae, intended for transport. Developed 8,000 years ago, these first containers have been around since the Neolithic period. Over the course of history, barrels have taken their place as containers for making, transporting and preserving wine.
So why are amphorae making a comeback?
Some cultures have never abandoned their wine-making jars. Georgia and its qvevis, Italy and its dolias, Spain and its tinajas... In Georgia, for example, buried jars are used for long macerations lasting several months. Berries, skins, juice and even stalks mingle to bring aromas, color and tannins to the wine, especially the whites, giving rise to the famous orange wines.
In the early 2000s, these wines, brought to France by a handful of winemakers and importers, aroused the curiosity of the wine industry. And their containers at the same time. Used for whites as well as reds, jars have become increasingly popular, and the range and choice has expanded.
Why is this so? The powerful aroma of wood is less successful in our glasses. In the same way that some estates are turning to "second-hand" barrels that have already housed several wines, with a less powerful imprint on their contents, terracotta jars are coming into their own. Like wood, they provide precious micro-oxygenation, a breathing space for the wine. The micro-porosity of both wood and clay helps soften the tannins.
Another advantage is that the ovoid shape allows better circulation and encourages the natural movement of the wine. Without intervention, this suspension of particles contributes to the wine's complexity and richness. as a result, winemakers boast rounder, smoother wines with enhanced purity.
