Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe: primeurs 2016

In their traditional versions, Pauillac wines always offer a more pronounced density and austerity. But in 2016, thanks to the efforts of many winemakers and the quality of the vintage, Pauillac wines rival each other in fruitiness and density, but with a velvety smoothness and charm that are quite rare in primeur wines. In fact, there's a plethora of choice. Latour is charming, Pichon Baron is mature, Lafite-Rothschild has a new, silkier string to its bow, thanks to Eric Kohler, and Mouton Rothschild is splendid. And let's not forget Pontet-Canet and its magical precision. One "little one" has my preference: Tour Sieujan. But hush, I haven't told you.

2016 is another year for Saint-Estèphe. For three years now, the northern Médoc has been offering more charming wines, full of flesh and density without being too austere, a recurring fault here. So in 2016, we're not choosing, we're buying whatever we can find. But just for fun, here's our selection.

Château Bellegrave - Pauillac - 2016

Woody, licorice nose, a little modern at first taste. Round, mellow palate, tannins a little over-extracted for my taste. - 15/16,5

Château Latour Le Pauillac - Pauillac - 2016

Floral, greedy, also very fruity for a greedy nose. Tight mouthfeel, greedy acidity, length. - 15/16,5

Château Bellevue-Cardon - Pauillac - 2016

French rose, a little rose powder too with hints of mocha. Juicy and sapid, energy, freshness and an interesting length that's more structuring than gourmand. -15/17

Château Lynch-Bages Echo - Pauillac - 2016

Toasty/smoky, juicy, velvety, with a beautiful tannic structure and very good acidity management. A very fine second wine - 15/17

Château Batailley - Pauillac - 2016

Lively, vibrant, slightly acidic nose. Juicy, velvety entry with full, structuring tannins and no harshness. - 16/17

Château Clerc Milon Pastourelle de - Pauillac - 2016

Floral, iris nose. Crisp and velvety, with good tension and fine tannins. Elegant and crisp yet dense. - 16/17

Château Croizet-Bages - Pauillac - 2016

Graphite and fresh fruit on the nose. Greedy, fruity palate with length and charm. - 16/17

Domaine Les Sadons - Pauillac - 2016

Lilac, a touch of French rose, with bite and good substance, yet elegant. Quite modern. - 16/17

Château Lynch-Moussas - Pauillac - 2016

Fresh fruit, floral notes too, for a charming nose. Velvety, unctuous and fresh on the palate, with a slight tension that brings an airy finish. - 16/17

Château Pichon Baron Les Tourelles de Longueville - Pauillac - 2016

Spicy, black fruit, lovely complexity. The palate is juicy, straightforward, taut with Cabernet Franc. Airy, minty finish. - 16/17

Château Latour Les Forts de Latour - Pauillac - 2016

Spicy, lovely woodiness, blueberry, juicy mouthfeel, very good depth, tannic structure with length and straightness, fleshy finish. A very fine bottle. - 16/17,5

Château Pibran - Pauillac - 2016

Notes of spice, a little pepper, greediness on the palate, a beautiful ensemble full of fruit. Fresh finish. - 16/17,5

Château Pichon Baron Les Griffons de - Pauillac - 2016

Spicy, black fruit, very well-defined complexity. Juicy, sapid palate, beautiful expression of fruit with freshness and precision. Superb delicacy with crispness. - 16/17,5

Château Grand-Puy Ducasse - Pauillac - 2016

Nose of flowers, fresh fruit. Suave, devilishly charming, fresh too with velvety, fine, delicate tannins. - 16/18

Château Tour Sieujan - Pauillac - 2016

Juicy, suave with structuring yet refined, elegant tannins. A massive wine, certainly, with real ageing potential, tasty bitterness and a massive, velvety finish. Well done! - 16/18

Château Duhart-Milon - Pauillac - 2016

Slight hint of graphite, smokiness (typical of Duhart), beautiful black fruits. Taut but unctuous on the palate, very fine grain with a high tannic load but acidity that sustains the whole in a juicy, almost crisp version. A Duhart that loses its austerity for a charming side. - 17/18

Château Mouton Rothschild Le Petit Mouton de - Pauillac - 2016

Black fruit, blackcurrant, blueberry. Taut, juicy, crisp palate with cabernets that think they're merlots and merlots that think they're cabernets. A fresh, crisp Petit Mouton with juicy tannins. No longer a second wine at this stage - 17/18

Château Pédesclaux - Pauillac - 2016

Pink, ripe, fruity, fleshy, volume, tension too with a fairly high tannic load. Precise, taut, fleshy finish, superb tannins. - 17/18

Château Armailhac (d') - Pauillac - 2016

Black fruit, floral too, with a greedy, open nose for Armailhac. Straightforward, taut palate, very good acidity with remarkable freshness and greediness. A singular d'Armailhac as it is very dense. - 17/18,5

Château Clerc Milon - Pauillac - 2016

Mocha, blueberry, blackcurrant, greedy, inviting. Great density, juicy, gourmet for a wine that was austere by birth, it's an opener to the world. A real challenger to Pauillac. Long on the palate. - 17/18,5

Château Lafite Rothschild Carruades de Lafite - Pauillac - 2016

Fresh, slightly mentholated nose, beautiful black fruits on the nose. A greedy, fruity, almost fleshy entry with a taut ensemble, straightforwardness, a little rectitude with airy tannins, a salivating finish. Merlot freshness and roundness. A very fine Carruades that will go down in history. Quite a change of style. - 17/18,5

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - Pauillac - 2016

Spices, black fruits, floral too. Velvety, mellow, superb tannins with substance, volume. A great Pichon Lalande, full of density and assertiveness. - 17/18,5

Château Pichon Baron - Pauillac - 2016

Lovely, fresh nose of mentholated, ripe black fruit. Juicy palate, superb balance, density, juicy tannins, long, long, long finish, and fresh, fresh, fresh. - 17/19

Château Lynch-Bages - Pauillac - 2016

Smoky, spicy, very complex fruit with a real minty freshness. Volume, juicy tannins, a wine with length and delicacy. - 18/19,5

Château Lafite Rothschild - Pauillac - 2016

Licorice, a little smoky, beautiful black fruit nose. Noble spices. Juicy, deep, very Lafite but less austere, with superb vivacity, freshness and tension. Significant tannic charge and polished tannins that structure the whole in true harmony. - 18/20

Château Latour - Pauillac - 2016

Very floral, spicy, with a nice touch of wood, lots of substance but with an emphasis on elegance. High tannic load with superb tannin quality for a Latour that is both powerful and caressing. Hélène Génin's touch adds magnificent subtlety and elegance. - 18/20

Château Mouton Rothschild - Pauillac - 2016

Smoky, graphite, ripe, crunchy black fruit, greediness too. Mouthfeel of satin, taffeta with magnificent length, freshness, movement. Assertive satin, what density. - 18/20

Château Pontet-Canet - Pauillac - 2016

Very black fruit on the nose, floral too, with a lovely expression of rose and iris. Velvety mouthfeel, very fine tannins, volume, sapidity, roundness and juicy Cabernets. Airy, slightly smoky finish. Absolutely superb. - 18/20

Château Andron Blanquet - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Slightly closed nose, still timid at this stage. Pronounced oak, volume, slightly hard, structuring tannins. Slight Saint-Estèphe austerity. - 15/16

Château Cos Labory - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Fruity and floral. Movement, acid notes, juice and tannins that squeeze a little - 15/16

Château Domeyne - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Luscious, beautiful aromas of red fruit, strawberry, a little gentian. Juicy, well-balanced, fresh and pleasurable on all levels. - 15/16

Château La Haye Majesté - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Delicate oak, black fruits, floral. Suave, slightly prominent tannins, prominent oak. - 15/16

Château Pez (de) - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Closed, fruity nose. Juicy and fresh. Greedy but with tannins that squeeze to the max. - 15/16

Château Saint Estèphe - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Slightly smoky nose, a little graphite, juicy, greedy, well-balanced for a fresh, dynamic whole. A pleasurable wine. - 15/16

Château Boscq (le) - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

A fresh nose, with a nice touch of wood, a complex and charming nose. Taut, lively, vibrant palate with building but charming tannins. - 16/17

Château Haut-Marbuzet - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Fresh fruit, very floral, greedy. Beautiful expression of fruit, juicy tannins, balanced and silky mouthfeel. - 16/17

Château Le Crock - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Fruity, greedy nose, full of freshness. Round on the palate, very fine tannins with delicacy and perfume. - 16/17

Château Lilian Ladouys - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Floral, fruity, minty, juicy, fresh, very fine tannins, greediness for a charming, fresh, elegant Saint-Estèphe. A finish with the savory austerity of Saint-Estephe, but which will develop a patina with age. - 16/17

Château Martin - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Attractive oaky, smoky nose with hints of blueberry. Dense, well-constructed palate, tannins still a little austere but very Saint-Etienne in their purity. Freshness and intensity on the finish. - 16/17

Château Ormes de Pez - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Black fruit, blueberry, blackberry. Straightforward palate, good tannic charge, vigor too. A muscular but juicy and tasty Saint-Estèphe. - 16/17

Château Pomys - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Beautiful black fruits with floral touches. Some woody notes, juice, fleshiness for a beautiful whole despite an austerity on the finish. - 16/17

Château Ségur de Cabanac - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Fresh, greedy, fruity and floral on the enticing, wriggling nose. Very fine juice, fleshy, the greediness is also expressed on the nose with a slightly austere but well-controlled finish - 16/17

Château Tour des Termes Alexaure - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Lively, dynamic, fresh, dense and complex nose. Beautiful mouthfeel, full-bodied, with notes of iris and violet. Tannins, concentration, lots of substance with structuring tannins. Quite deep and muscular. - 16/17

Château Montrose La Dame de Montrose - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Rosé, floral, spicy, licorice on aeration. Very fresh, juicy, crisp and velvety, with great substance, a wine that's as charming as it gets. This is no longer a second wine, it's a wine in its own right. - 16/18

Château Phélan Ségur - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Black fruit, slightly mentholated, very fine oak, licorice. Very ripe fruit. Structured tannins, volume without losing real elegance. Fleshy, elegant finish. A very fine bottle, the most accomplished of recent years - 16/18

Château Tronquoy-Lalande - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Black fruit, licorice, a little smoky and very spicy. Juicy, full-bodied palate, volume, a high tannic load but velvety and fresh. Fine bitters on the finish. Very Saint-Estèphe with elegant austerity. - 16/18

Château Saint-Pierre de Corbian - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Vibrant nose, very black fruit, magical gourmandise and complexity. Juicy, tasty too, beautifully velvety with a substantial but perfectly controlled tannic structure. Excellent value for money. An essential purchase. - 16/18+

Château Cos d'Estournel Pagodes de Cos - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Floral, a little lilac, at once fresh, a little acidic and deep. A round, unctuous Pagodes with the necessary tension for a Saint-Estèphe wine. The most accomplished Pagodes of its breed. What length! A real favorite. - 17/18

Château Lafon-Rochet - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

A slightly graphite, smoky, mocha nose with hints of iris, blackcurrant buds, juicy, full mouth, a little round, a tannic charge with greediness, substance, volume. Among the greats. A Lafon-Rochet that will leave a lasting impression. - 17/19

Château Calon-Ségur - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

From the very first nose, Calon Ségur impresses with its greediness, fresh fruit and floral notes. The palate is very precise, enhanced by great freshness and a racy dimension that we didn't know existed. Great art! Bravo ! A real favorite. - 18/19,5

Château Cos d'Estournel - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Smoky, nicely toasted, with notes of iris and violet. Unctuous, round, superb mouthfeel, elegant tannins, substance, volume. Taffeta mouthfeel. An ambitious, unctuous, perfectly polished Cos with a breed and extra soul rarely found in this vintage. - 18/20

Château Montrose - Saint-Estèphe - 2016

Iris, black cherry, lilac for a nose of rare depth at Montrose. Mocha, a little coffee. Lusciousness and juice of real complexity, a big tannic load with a magnificent coating and a very beautiful velvety structure. Superb peacock-tailed, airy finish. You can feel Montrose's potential and the signature of the vintage, which is quite rare this year. Powerful yet elegant. One of the most powerful in Bordeaux. - 18/20