Breakfast, chef!
Some love it, others shun it (the famous intermittent fasting!) and, for most, it's made up of habits that are hard to break. For many guests, this first meal of the day is the last moment of their stay with a chef. Providing room and board implies that chefs take an interest in it, even if it's often a headache and a real logistical challenge. Meet 3 hotel chefs who go to great lengths to make sure you wake up feeling refreshed.
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20 tables in the countryside
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Auberge de la Grive, Aisne
Nicolas and Cécilia Gautier, whom we've been following for a long time (Nicolas also has the distinction of having twice been elected Jeune Talent, in 2010 when he worked at l'Ardoise, in Ognes, then three years later when he was at the helm of Château d'Esclimont), returned to the heart of Picardy in the summer of 2023. They sold their two other restaurants, Nature and Bistrot RG, in the North of France, to create, in a magnificent country house they fell in love with (and which they now occupy), the Bistrot RG.the two of them work in pairs, facing a dozen or so customers arranged in a U-shape around a central island where the couple are busy. The menus are imposed, of course, but that's the only slight complaint the Gautiers might have. Even if the atmosphere can sometimes take a little time to warm up (it's not always easy to get along with table-mates you haven't chosen), the dishes that follow one another soon cheer up even the sorriest of spirits. The 3 toques are already very close, for the very fine char from Voulpaix lightly confit, lovage and nasturtium, the soft-steamed monkfish (wonderful flesh) with beurre blanc and girolles from Saint-Gobain and the gourmet blonde from Caillouël roasted over the embers.
As you can see, Nicolas Gautier still loves working with local produce (and he talks about it with passion), and he doesn't neglect the desserts, which are very elaborate and personalized. The cellar is quite short, but very well focused.
Where? 5, rue du Logis, 02300 Trosly-Loire
See the Gault&Millau review ofAuberge de la Grive
www.aubergedelagrive.com
