The 10 addresses that make up Saint Rémy de Provence

We love this little town in the heart of the Alpilles, which has reinvented itself without betraying its past. A favorite with Parisians and foreigners alike, Saint-Rémy is now home to art galleries and chic boutiques, but its Provencal market atmosphere, the charm of its plane-shaded squares and the beauty of its Roman remains have all remained intact. Vincent Van Gogh spent the last year of his life here, painting some 150 canvases, dazzled by the beauty of the town and the powerful light of the Alpilles. Even today, the magic remains.

Where to stay?

Hôtel de Tourrel

In the center of Saint-Rémy, this former private mansion has been transformed into a delightful contemporary retreat that nevertheless respects the history of the place. The stone walls have been skilfully restored, as have the masterly historic staircase and exposed timbers. A member of the Design Hôtels collection, it now houses 9 spacious rooms and suites, decorated with beautiful lighting and furniture by designers ranging from Eileen Gray to Konstantin Grcic. Another nugget on the estate is chef Matthias Schütz's remarkable cuisine, inspired by Provence and the Mediterranean.

5 rue Carnot Saint Rémy de Provence 13210. Tel: 04 84 35 07 20

Hôtel B Design & Spa

In the Vallée des Baux, this refined, contemporary setting was designed by architect Christophe Pillet.white, noble materials (brushed wood, Corian) and high-tech home automation to equip the 15 rooms and suites, whose bay windows open onto a landscape of flowers and umbrella pines. Guests come here to savor Nancy Bourguignon's gourmet cuisine, but above all to enjoy a spa offering exceptional body and facial treatments from Carita, Decléor and SkinCeuticals. A serene, luminous stopover, ideal for exploring the surrounding villages, from Les Baux to Maussane or Le Paradou...

1 chemin de l'Ancienne Voie Ferrée Paradou 13520. Tel: 04 90 54 56 78.

Where to have lunch, dinner or a drink?

2 GM addresses

Les Pieds dans l'eau.

In an old manor house with a large terrace, this is the kind of bar we love, perfect for enjoying a drink with a plate of cheeses or charcuterie to share, while waiting for the musicians on weekends and discovering one of the many exhibitions on offer upstairs. One of Saint-Rémy's hotspots, frequented above all by locals.

22 Boulevard Victor Hugo 13250 Tel: 04 90 90 74 49.

Things to see, things to do...

The market and the best Provencal grocery stores.

One of Provence's finest markets. Every Wednesday morning, the Place de la République and surrounding streets are filled with stalls brimming with fruit, vegetables, flowers, herbs, cheeses and local charcuterie, not to mention beautiful handicrafts (wickerwork and olive wood). A gourmet discovery to be extended with a stroll through the old town and its cult addresses. Chocolaterie Joël Durand, famous for its exquisite chocolate-thyme and rosemary combinations, and its Menton citrus jams. The Lilamand confectionery with its candied fruits and exceptional calissons, or the Entre Sel et terre grocery store for its salts, oils, vinegars, sauces and chutneys from the region and around the world. Last but not least, the oils from Moulin de Calanquet, with their delicate fruity or bitter flavors, all from old-fashioned olive trees.

Chocolaterie Joël Durand 3 Bd Victor Hugo.

Confiserie Lilamand 5 av Albert Schweitzer.

Epicerie entre Sel et Terre 34 rue Carnot.

Olive oil Le Moulin du Calanquet 3206 Chemin d'Arles.

A stroll through the old town.

Nestling behind its circular boulevard shaded by plane trees, the old town of Saint-Rémy reveals its secret alleyways, ancient houses and squares overgrown with terraces. Stroll past the Hôtel de Sade with its sumptuous Renaissance façade, the Hôtel de Mistral-de-Montdragon, home to the poetic Musée des Alpilles with its santons and ex-votos, or the collegiate church of Saint-Martin with its polychrome organ case. Along the narrow streets, you'll also come across the art galleries that have taken over the town (galerie Heimat, du Pharos, atelier Delesty) and a number of concept stores not to be missed. CLine for its decorative objects and organic cosmetics; Lulu en Provence for its fashion creations; and Savonnerie de Saint-Rémy for its delicate donkey's milk soaps.

C Line 34 Bd Mirabeau.

Lulu en Provence 34 Bd Mirabeau.

La Savonnerie de Saint Rémy de Provence. 16 rue Lafayette

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Glanum

One of the region's most beautiful and best-preserved sites. All the periods of ancient history magically reappear in the narrow streets, from the Greek presence with two Hellenistic-style houses to the various Roman remains - thermal baths, forum, residences and temples. In all, more than 70,000 items have been unearthed and can now be viewed in the Hôtel de Sade. A magical place at sunset, overlooking the garrigues and the gentle hills of the Alpilles.

Avenue Vincent Van Gogh Tel: 04 90 32 23 79

Saint-Paul de Mausole monastery

It was in this former priory converted into a psychiatric hospital that Vincent Van Gogh underwent treatment in 1889, a year before his death. We discover the moving reconstruction of his room and, at the end of a small alley, a beautiful 11th-century cloister flanked by a garden of lavender and irises, where Van Gogh planted his easel. Here he produced numerous drawings and over 150 paintings, including the famous Starry Night.

Avenue du Dr Edgar Leroy. Tel: 04 90 92 77 00

From Saint-Rémy to the Vallée des Baux along the vineyard route

Now famous for its remarkable Baux-de-Provence PDO wines, this valley brings together eight of the region's most spectacular villages. Our favorites? Les Baux, with its medieval fortress-like setting overlooking garrigues and pine forests; Mouries, a typical Provencal town with shady squares; and Maussane-les-Alpilles, with its fountains and washhouses. Stop off for a wine tasting at Domaine Hauvette or Château Romanin near Saint Rémy, or Mas de Gourgonnier in Mouries.

Domaine Hauvette. 2946 ancienne via Aurelia. St Rémy de Provence. Tel: 04 90 92 03 90

Château Romanin. Route de Cavaillon St Rémy de Provence. 04 90 92 69 57

Mas de Gourgonnier. Le Destet 13890 Mouries. Tel: 04 90 47 50 45

An extra escape

Les Carrières de Lumières

These gigantic former limestone quarries are now one of France's most fascinating exhibition sites. Imagine huge rooms carved out of the rock, their walls used as picture rails for totally immersive digital exhibitions, with 360° projections giving the feeling of being one with the works on display. After Venice and Vermeer, the theme of the 2024 exhibition is the Egypt of the Pharaohs.

Route de Maillane Tel: 04 90 49 20 02