The return of grandma's crockery

Riding the wave of nostalgia that has brought the iconic"Emmanuelle" chairs, TamTam stools and Togo sofas back into our living rooms, the culinary scene is now welcoming with open arms mismatched plates, glasses and cutlery, treasures unearthed at flea markets and brocantes. Far from being confined to the shelves of students in search of bargains to furnish their first apartment, this crockery from another era is now takingis now storming the tables of trendy restaurants in search of authenticity, ready to offer their customers a culinary experience"just like home".

Far from the rigid conventions of yesteryear, the art of the table is being reinvented in a joyful disorder. For some, hunting out these little curiosities becomes not only a hobby, but also a no-holds-barred way of presenting generous, unpretentious cuisine. From the flea markets of Brussels to Saint-Ouen, not forgetting the aisles of Emmaüs, restaurateurs and chefs are snapping up these unique pieces which, far from being ephemeral, are part of a lasting and eclectic trend, mixing colors, shapes, styles and eras. Whether meticulously matched or totally mismatched, shining with brilliance or proudly displaying the marks of time, these period pieces have become a must-have in fashionable establishments. Like a box to tick, just like fake flowers on the front or quirky neon lights for the right to swell Instagram feeds!

Sharing cuisine and vintage crockery

The emergence of brunch, the rise of table d'hôtes and the growing popularity of share cooking have opened up new prospects for these relics of another era. Family recipes, such as Big Mamma's famous Tigramisù, generously served in large vintage dishes, find a modern echo in this revival of the art of the table. The same is true of chic " neo-bistros " such as Brasserie d'Auteuil, reinvented by decorator Laura Gonzalez, La Chamade in Paris's Marais district and Ravigotte in Toulouse, where this approach finds fertile ground. In these spaces, mismatched crockery not only presents the meal, it enriches the culinary experience, awakening childhood memories of family meals.

With over 15 million French people regularly treading the floors of flea markets, garage sales and brocantes, mismatched crockery is asserting itself as the new chic, consolidating its place in the hearts of gourmets. Far from being a flash in the pan, this trend reflects a collective quest for a return to true values: authenticity and conviviality, with a not inconsiderable green touch. Opting for vintage tableware also means saying yes to a greener way of consuming, by giving a second lease of life to objects relegated to oblivion because of their outdated look or because they clashed with the Knoll table!

Treasure hunters: 3 brands specializing in vintage crockery

Vintage tableware

Founded by a team with a passion for flea markets and the treasures of yesteryear, the Vaisselle Vintage brand breathes new life into the precious objects it offers for rental. Whether you're planning a dinner party with friends where conversation flows as easily as the dishes on the table, a wedding where every detail counts, or a corporate event that deserves more than just a handful of chips, Vaisselle Vintage is the ideal partner! With treasures sourced from the four corners of France, Vaisselle Vintage seduces with its eclectic catalog, ranging from century-old pieces in Terre de Fer to icons of contemporary design. Their meticulous selection guarantees visual harmony and undeniable quality, despite the venerable age of these pieces.
► www.vaissellevintage.com

Bazar d'Alger

In the Parisian bustle of the 10ᵉ arrondissement, Bazar d'Alger is home to crockery that finds a second youth here. At the helm, Arnold, an artist with a singular background, transforms the ordinary into the extraordinary, giving old dishes, cups and plates a new reason to shine. Armed with brushes and gold leaf, this porcelain magician redefines the art of the table with a touch of elegance. Arnold's approach is a vibrant echo of his commitment to the environment. By scrupulously choosing tableware made in France and, for the most daring pieces, European finds, he ensures that his art has a minimal carbon footprint. From visits to Emmaüs to treasure hunts on Le Bon Coin, Arnold tirelessly scours the territory in search of what will become the canvas for his creations. Le Bazar d'Alger attracts a varied clientele, from young thirtysomethings eager to breathe new life into family relics to large hotel groups looking to offer their guests a unique experience. More than just a simple transaction, Arnold d'Alger is committed to reviving an almost-forgotten craftsmanship, marking each piece with its own artistic stamp.
►www.bazardalger.com

©wawwlatable

Waww La Table

During confinement, two friends, Péri Cochin and Arabelle Reille, turned isolation into inspiration, giving birth to Waww la Table. The adventure began on Instagram, where a weekly contest invited users to share their table, with prizes for the most beautiful creations. Building on this success, the 2 friends moved up a gear with the launch of Waww.fr, a site dedicated to the arts of the table, which quickly established itself as a must for lovers of fine dining, rallying the support of celebrities such as Stéphane Bern, Thierry Marx and India Mahdavi. Waww.fr shines particularly brightly in its "chinées tables" section, where porcelain tureens, Murano glassware and antique silver-plated cutlery revive the spirit of a family buffet brimming with memories. What's more, Waww La Table offers an ingenious service: a complete box, for 2 to 12 guests, with plates, glasses, tablecloth and accessories, all carefully chinaed, ready to be deployed and delivered directly to your home. Tableware that tells its own story, ready to enrich yours.
►www.waww.fr

4 questions to chef Arnaud Delvenne at Tata Yoyo in La Garenne-Colombes

Arnaud Delvenne, a rising star from Liège, distinguished himself in the thirteenth season of "Top Chef", where he shone all the way to the final - a first for a Belgian! With an epicurean background that has seen him progress from waiter to assistant manager at Quick, via prison cook, this talented 38-year-old chef has patiently stewed his professional experience to make it as rich and varied as possible. In March 2022, he fulfilled a dream by opening "Nono" in Liège, a place where Italian cuisine is king. The same year, he took on the role of chef ambassador for Bistrots Pas Parisiens, succeeding Norbert Tarayre. This handover, far from being insignificant, underlines his ability to infuse his identity into an already rich universe, with the subtlety of a perfectly balanced dish.

What was your main source of inspiration for choosing vintage or antique tableware for your restaurant, and how do you select pieces that match the ambiance and culinary experience you wish to offer?

A. D. : Each piece we select tells a story, adding a touch of nostalgia to the culinary experience we want to offer our customers. By scouring flea markets and brocantes, we look for pieces that capture the essence of our vision and perfectly complement the ambience of our restaurant. Finally, we are sincerely committed to an eco-responsible approach, favoring local and sustainable products wherever possible. It's our way of contributing, in small ways, to a better world.

What are the main challenges you face when using mottled or vintage crockery in a restaurant setting?

A. D. : Vintage crockery, with its quality and sturdiness, is a real asset for us. It ages gracefully, taking on a patina rather than being damaged quickly, which gives it even more character over time. What's more, the fact that it's mismatched gives us great freedom in the choice of replacements. Sometimes, a breakage becomes an opportunity to add a unique piece to our collection. Finally, to avoid stock problems, we're always on the lookout for new finds at flea markets and brocantes.

Do you have an anecdote about a piece of vintage crockery you've found for your restaurant?

A. D. : Absolutely! One day, while bringing a dessert to one of our customers, tears welled up in her eyes. She told us that her grandmother used to serve her snacks on identical plates when she was a child. It's amazing how objects can carry a story and take us back in time. She was very moved. Of course, we gave her the plate as a souvenir. Beyond the memories that our tableware can evoke, some reactions are quite touching. On several occasions, we've chatted with some of our older customers, who have come to us offering to give us services they no longer need, and which they'd be happy to see back on our tables! It's always touching to see how cooking and eating bring people and generations together.

How do you coordinate the choice of tableware with the different dishes on your menu?

A. D. : It's a process that requires a lot of care and love. Each plate is like a unique puzzle piece, and we take the time to match them carefully in terms of size, shape and even pattern. There's a real passion behind this approach, as each choice of tableware helps to tell a story. We consider every detail, from sauces to food colors, to ensure the visual harmony offered to the customer.