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Pithiviers, its history and our best addresses

Pithiviers, its history and our best addresses

Anne Debbasch | 10/23/24, 4:15 PM
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Pithiviers! While its savoury version is well known - a pâté croûte made from game bird meat - its sweet version is confined to the Loiret region. Pithiviers is thought to have Gallo-Roman origins as a galette enriched with almonds.

In the 19th century, it became the cake we know today, made with almond powder, eggs, butter and sugar, topped with royal icing and candied fruit: bigarreaux and angéliques. Pithiviers fondant is also available in a flaky version reminiscent of the galette des rois. In 2017, the Confrérie du Pithiviers created the "Authentique Pithiviers" brand for the almond fondant version, and undertook to plant 50 hectares of almond trees in the commune by 2021. "Our aim is to perpetuate our know-how by harmonizing the recipe: you don't put margarine in a Pithiviers, you put butter! By planting almond trees locally, we're also aiming for PDO status," explains Mr. Liger, vice-president of the Confrérie and former Grand Maitre.

Stéphane & Christine Maréchal, À La Renommée, Pithiviers

Pithiviers is one of our region's specialties. "We've always made it here. When I took over the patisserie in 1994, I didn't change the recipe. I use blanched whole almonds to prepare my homemade almond powder. Baking is also essential for the cake to melt in the mouth," explains Stéphane Maréchal. Here, it's all a question of balance: the fondant glaze is neither too thick nor too thin, and adds the essential sweet note to this traditional cake. Available individually - les pomponettes - with local almonds (or not) or to share, it's well worth a try!


Stéphane Maréchal - DR

Gérard Bobet, Les Lutins joyeux, Yèvre-Le-Chatel

"I've been making pithiviers for 60 years in my restaurant. The cooks use royal icing to glaze it, as in the old days; it's less sweet than the fondant used in recent years. In the Middle Ages, the Carnutes people inhabited our region and made a galette with honey and almonds, the ancestor of our pithiviers fondant. It wasn't until the 18th century that a pastry chef came up with the idea of slipping the almond cream of the pithiviers fondant between two puff pastries." In his restaurant dedicated to sustainable professional integration, Gérard Bobet, perpetuates the tradition and travels the length and breadth of France to promote it.

Bruno Cordier, Orléans

Bruno Cordier, MOF Glacier, has been perpetuating Pithiviers know-how for 44 years. "It's representative of our know-how. I like to make my own almond powder to leave a little grain for tasting. The special feature of my pithiviers is the rice flour, which I use instead of wheat flour in small quantities in the cake. In our house, rum is used to perfume the cake, but not the fondant, which I relax with a little syrup to set the glaze." An emblematic cake!


© DR

Aurélien Nicot, Le Fournil Chapellois, La Chapelle-Saint-Mesmin

For a long time, Aurélien Nicot devoted himself to puff pastry, but since September, he's also been making Fondant, with the aim of using as many local ingredients as possible. "At the Authentique Pithiviers competition, we won first prize for puff pastry pithiviers in March in the patron and worker category, my apprentice Cassandre Perea won the Gold medal and my worker Cassandre Perea won the Gold medal. the Gold Medal and my worker Pierrick Fassot the Prix d'Honneur for fondant pithiviers, which is why we're launching it too." A cake rich in butter and almonds.


Aurélien Nicot

Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Carreira, Chambon-la-Forêt

Nelson Carreira pays particular attention to the production of his pithiviers. "We use eggs from the farm, PDO butter from Isigny, sugar produced in the region and traditional French Label Rouge flour from Moulins Forichet for its very special taste. Baking is crucial to ensure that the cake remains melt-in-the-mouth, with a fine crunchy layer on top. The important thing is to respect this balance." Glazed with water ice, the cake keeps for 4 to 5 days and can be enjoyed at room temperature.
► Where? 1a Route de la Source, 45340 Chambon-la-Forêt

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