Domaine des Étangs and Bernardaud: awakening the senses in Charente Limousine
Between 13th-century stone walls and the brilliance of Limoges porcelain, the Domaine des Étangs orchestrates a unique encounter with the Maison Bernardaud. A sensory immersion where craftsmanship and the art of entertaining redefine authentic luxury in the heart of sovereign nature.
You don't stay here simply because you need a stopover; you come here to experience a certain idea of France, a blend of earthy culture and a vision of high-flying luxury, far removed from the codes of 5-star establishments. at Massignac, this fairytale château, surrounded by its thousand hectares of forests and meadows, has exchanged its protocol and medieval rigor for the soul of an elegant family home. Under the aegis of Auberge Collection, Domaine des Étangs has succeeded in creating family intimacy within a monumental architectural setting. To take this art of living a step further, the estate inaugurated a new collaboration in September: meetings with the Maison Bernardaud to learn how to master the art of the table, and to discover the secrets of the famous house's workshops.
Etiquette without the pomp
The apprenticeship begins under the roof of the"Ciel" room. This is our refuge when the Charentais weather takes its toll: a luminous, wood-clad room, where a monumental fireplace seems to watch over the secrets of the estate. But as soon as the sun comes out, the workshop escapes the château walls. You'll find yourself in the shade of a century-old plane tree, in a secluded corner of the park, or in the heart of the spiral vegetable garden. It's here, in front of an immaculate tablecloth, that the young lecturer plunges us into the mysteries of protocol, from royal pomp to the meticulous demands of Élysée banquets.
We learn that setting a table is an act of high precision, a geometry of pleasure. It teaches us the fundamental distinction between "à la française" dressing, where forks point towards the tablecloth to reveal the coat of arms engraved on the back of the handles, and the " à l'anglaise " style, tines pointing towards the ceiling. We discover the fatal errors that betray the neophyte: never cross cutlery, respect the strict alignment of glasses - from the largest to the smallest, diagonally - and above all, the art of placing the knife, sharp edge always turned towards the plate, as a sign of peace.
The lecturer from the century-old factory reminds us that each piece of porcelain has a function, a weight and a way of catching the light. It's not just a question of rules, it's a question of harmony. at the end of this initiation, lunch or optional dinner can be enjoyed on site, amid the wild grasses or under the centuries-old beams, to immediately put this effortless elegance into practice.
▶ Price: Masterclass package for 2 to 12 people: €400 + four-course dinner: €150/person
The art of tea, the other ancestral story
The journey continues with the same ritual: in the felt of the salons if the wind picks up, or outside to enjoy the Limousin light. During this"Taste of Porcelain", the ambassador of Limoges' jewel plunges us into three centuries of gourmet delights. We discover how tea, initially an exotic remedy in the East, conquered European courts in the XVIIᵉ century, becoming so precious that it was kept under lock and key in silver or lacquer boxes.
The expert tells us of a time when porcelain had not yet been mastered in the West, making every cup imported from China an object of absolute fascination, before Limoges came to upset this order with its white gold. We learn that the very shape of the cups evolved with use: the appearance of the handle, for example, was a small revolution to avoid burning fingers when the beverage began to be enjoyed scorching hot.
To accompany these tales, the Domaine's pastry chef imagines sweets that echo the delicate motifs of the Maison's collections. We savor mignardises that seem to respond to the gilding and enameling of the pieces on display. We leave the table with the rare impression of having shared a tête-à-tête with history, where the word refinement takes on its full meaning.
▶ Price: Conference package for 2 to 12 people: €400 + snack: €65/person
The imprint of gesture in Limoges
To round off the experience, we leave the Etangs and drive an hour east. We then push open the doors of the Manufacture in Limoges for a journey into the belly of the beast, where clay gives life to the object. For just over two hours, you'll discover craftsmen who, with infinite patience, repeat gestures thought to have disappeared: modeling, enameling and the precision of decoration.
The highlight of the visit is when, after the guided tour, you're invited to get your hands dirty and personalize your own piece alongside the craftsmen. We sit down in the workshop to personalize the piece of our choice (cup, tray or small plate). You leave with the feeling of having touched the soul of a historic house, a fragment of pure white in your hand.
▶ Price: €215/person
