Wood in tableware: between tradition and eco-responsibility

Wood is making a comeback on our tables, emerging from the forests of oblivion to breathe a touch of "nature chic" into our meals. Once confined to the iconic status of an overzealous "chalet" movement, bordering on aesthetic saturation, our faithful woody companion is now enjoying a stylish resurrection. In this era of chic minimalism, driven by a renewed infatuation with noble materials, wood's intrinsic charm and elegant rusticity are once again seductive. A brilliant blend of finesse and authenticity, wood is metamorphosing into elegant, practical objects of desire, prized by chefs. Who would have thought that going back to one's roots would be the height of chic?

Why does wood appeal so much?

Wood, in its very essence, has a multitude of advantages that transcend trends, making it a preferred choice for our tables. This noble, living material brings a touch of authenticity and naturalness to the table. The onslaught of "sharing boards", ubiquitous in restaurants known more for their Instagram-ability than their memorability, is giving way to a new wave: condiment bowls, presentation plates or cutlery carved from various types of wood. The uniqueness of each piece, due to the wood's distinctive grain and hue, lends a distinct character to each table, reflecting the unique personality and style of the chef or host.

As our ecological awareness grows, wood becomes the preferred choice. Favoring wooden objects from responsibly managed forests is an eco-responsible gesture, a rebellion against the tide of disposable crockery and plastics flooding our kitchens. By opting for wood, restaurateurs and hosts are showing their deep respect for the planet. But wood's appeal doesn't stop at its environmental impact. This noble material not only ages gracefully, it is also remarkably easy to maintain. Unlike porcelain or glass, which fear the slightest impact, wood is reassuringly robust. Wooden objects withstand the challenges of everyday life without breaking, and small scratches or cracks are easily repaired. A little sanding and a little special oil, and the marks of time or accidents become patina, adding character to every piece. What's more, wood has natural antibacterial properties, making it a hygienic choice for food contact.

The use of wood in tableware adds a sensory dimension to the culinary experience. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, wood engages the sense of touch with its unique texture and ability to retain heat, enriching the gustatory experience. The experience is also auditory: unlike ceramic or metal, wood contributes to a distinct, softer and more intimate sound ambience.

Three brands that shape wood

LJ Création

Lauriane Josselin, from a family of artists and antique enthusiasts, is the spirit behind LJ Création. From an early age, she developed a deep love for objects and the act of creating. It was in 2016, after leaving the hustle and bustle of the city for the tranquility of the Savoyard countryside, that Lauriane discovered her passion for woodturning. It was during a training course offered by her father that her professional adventure began. LJ Création was born, driven by the ambition to design aesthetic and functional objects, while remaining respectful of the environment and close to users. Lauriane carefully selects local woods - oak, ash and walnut - for their beauty and strength. She is committed to producing each object in limited series or as a single piece, avoiding any chemical treatment in favor of a certified edible oil finish, applied in two coats to guarantee the safety and aesthetics of her works. Chefs such as Rémi Chambard (Les Étangs de Corot), Jean Sulpice (l'Auberge du Père Bise) and Benoit Vidal (Maison Benoit Vidal) place their trust in him, choosing his unique wooden pieces to enrich the culinary experience in their prestigious establishments.
► L.J Création

Frank Juery

Maison Lacker

In the heart of the Jura, a land where lakes and dense forests meet, Margot Lacker finds inspiration for her unique creations that marry a passion for nature with her cabinetmaking skills. At the helm of Maison Lacker, her ambition is to transform wooden objects so that they are not only beautiful and practical, but also respectful of the environment. From an early age, cradled by the beauty of the Jura, Margot was naturally drawn to cabinetmaking and art turning, guided by a fascination for the wonders of her region. These experiences, enriched by a commitment to the environment, gave birth to Maison Lacker. Here, Margot creates wooden objects for everyday use, with a particular emphasis on eco-design, convinced that every material should be used to its full potential. This philosophy is reflected in her choice of noble French woods, PEFC-certified and sourced from local sawmills. With care and respect, Margot limits her creations to small series or one-off pieces, taking advantage of the singularities of wood such as its grain, knots and splits. Her collaboration extends to prestigious chefs and establishments, including Matthias Marc of Substance in Paris, Maxime Bouttier of Geosmine, also in Paris, and Angelo Ferrigno of Cibo in Dijon, all seduced by the quality and authenticity of her work.
► Maison Lacker

Pascale Naessens for Serax

In the world of decoration and tableware, some designers stand out for their ability to breathe beauty and authenticity into their work. Such is the case of Pascale Naessens and her collaboration with Serax, which is distinguished by a fusion of functionality and natural, minimalist aesthetics. Their latest extension of the Pure collection, with the introduction of wooden accessories, is the quintessence of this approach, valorizing pure forms and the material in its rawest form. The choice of carbonized ash and burnt ash wood is not insignificant: it not only brings a unified color to the entire collection, but also tells a story of transformation and resilience. Bowls, planks, serving dishes, plates, coasters... the Pure collection is crafted with care and respect for the material, inviting us to return to our origins. It's a call to integrate art into everyday life, to transform every meal into a unique sensory experience where touch, sight and taste meet.
► Pascale Naessens for Serax

Three questions for Jean Sulpice

Jean Sulpice, the prodigy of Savoyard ovens, has made the mountains his muse and cooking his playground. Born into a family of restaurateurs, he was quick to swap children's games for pots and pans. In 2016, Jean and his wife Magali became the new owners of the Auberge du Père Bise, an emblematic Haute-Savoie restaurant. There, the chef brilliantly blends terroir and innovation, with one foot in tradition and the other in boundless creativity, and wins award after award. Gault&Millau "Chef of the Year" in 2017, chevalier de l'ordre national du Mérite in 2019... his career is a hymn to perseverance, and his cuisine, an ode to the mountains.

What motivated you to choose wooden tableware for your restaurant, was it a decision guided purely by aesthetics, or was there also an ecological reflection behind the choice?

J.S .: The decision to opt for wooden tableware was rooted in both aesthetic and ecological considerations. These choices reflect the philosophy of my cooking, which is deeply rooted in my territory. For example, the use of wooden plates to serve Beaufort mousse creates a coherence with the process of maturing the cheese on wood, offering a meaningful taste experience.

What are the main challenges associated with using wooden tableware in a restaurant environment, and what strategies have you put in place to overcome them?

J.S.: The use of wooden tableware requires regular and careful maintenance, similar to that of classic plates: it's necessary to respect the object and make good use of it... To preserve their beauty and functionality, we have developed a specific maintenance protocol, ensuring their longevity and resistance.

Do you have a piece of wooden tableware that holds a special place in your heart? Can you tell us its story or what makes it so special?

J.S .: One piece is particularly close to my heart: the little racket used for the herb tart, evoking the image of a flower. The shape and purpose of this piece perfectly embody the union between art and gastronomy, reminding us of the close links between nature and our cuisine.