Crémant festive bubbles

Foreword: Did you know?

France has 8 crémant appellations (Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Die, Jura, Limoux, Loire, Savoie) covering all the regions of France, each with its own particularities thanks to different grape varieties and terroirs.

• The jury's favorite: Valentin Zusslin Bollenberg 2014

Estate presentation: The Valentin Zusslin estate has been in the same family for 13 generations. Today, it represents 16 hectares of biodynamic vineyards. The estate is also fortunate to have vines on the Pfingstberg Grand Cru.

Tasting notes: Domaine Zusslin's reputation is well established, and this Crémant d'Alsace from the Bollenberg vineyard is a perfect example. The cuvée is produced on limestone terroirs associated with red clay composed of iron oxide. The 2014 vintage was vinified for 7 months in foudre. It then spent 80 months on laths before being disgorged in December 2021. On the nose, this is a crémant with evolving notes of apricot, spices, brioche and cereal. On the palate, this is a racy wine with a salivating side. There's density, substance and a length that would make the Champenois jealous. A great gourmet crémant that deserves a place of choice on your table this holiday season. Go for it!

Appellation: Crémant d'Alsace

Dosage: Brut nature

Price ex-cellar: €38

Score: 93/100

Website : https://www.zusslin.com

• Valentin Zusslin Clos Liebenberg 2013

Tasting notes: Domaine Valentin Zusslin puts a second cuvée on the podium with Clos Liebenberg. The cuvée is produced on the 3.5 ha monopole at the top of the Pfingstberg hill with pinot auxerrois in the majority and a little riesling. The 2013 vintage was vinified in foudre for 6 months. It then spent 84 months on laths before being disgorged in April 2021. On the nose, the result is surprising, evolving on aromas of apricot, mirabelle plum, caramel combined with beeswax and spices. The palate is full of character with a vinous side. We find orange peel, small citrus fruits and a fine finish of tension. The second palate is marked by gingerbread flavors and hints of cocoa. A crémant that's perfect for fine dining.

Appellation: Crémant d'Alsace

Dosage: Brut nature

Price ex-cellar: €38

Score: 91/100

Website : https://www.zusslin.com

• Domaine Taudou, Vintage 2010

Domaine Taudou is located in the Limoux vineyards, the only crémant appellation in the Languedoc region. The estate covers some 30 hectares, 15 of which are AOC Limoux. The vines are Terra Vitis certified.

Tasting notes: Our tasting committee was pleasantly surprised by this curiosity straight from Limoux. This 2010 vintage is a blend of 60% chardonnay, 20% pinot noir and 20% chenin. The special feature of this cuvée is its long ageing on laths for 9 years after bottling. The result is a cuvée with strong notes of evolution. The nose reveals notes of tobacco and roasting. On the palate, we discover a gastronomic crémant with roasted notes and a finish of dried fruit. The bubbles are elegant and easy to digest. A fine crémant for discerning connoisseurs. A 2010 vintage at its best. Don't wait too long to enjoy it.

Appellation: Crémant Limoux

Dosage: Brut (6 g/l)

Price ex cellar: NC

Score: 90/100

Website : https://taudou.fr

• Louis Bouillot, Les Grands Terroirs "Dessus les Vermots" 2012

Presentation of the domaine: Louis Bouillot is a specialist in Burgundy crémants. Today, the estate farms nearly 200 hectares under HVE (high environmental value) standards.

Tasting notes: Dessus les Vermots is a pinot noir blanc de noirs produced on a limestone parcel in Savigny-lès-Beaune. This confidential cuvée of 3186 bottles is aged for 8 years on laths. On the nose, this blanc de noirs is reminiscent of champagne, with notes of evolution, brioche, pastry, dried fruit and spices. Our committee immediately embraced this beautiful complexity. On the palate, it's easy to digest, with elegant, fruity bubbles, even if it lacks a little body. The finish is long and mineral. A fine cuvée to accompany your festive meals.

Appellation: Crémant de Bourgogne

Dosage: Extra-brut (5 g/l)

Price ex-cellar: €17.90

Score: 90/100

Website: www.louis-bouillot.com

• Cave Bailly Lapierre, "Vive-la-Joie" 2017

Présentation du domaine: Cave Bailly Lapierre is another Burgundy specialist in AOC Crémant de Bourgogne. It ages its cuvées in an underground stone quarry that offers perfect conditions for aging on laths. The winery brings together 430 winegrowers.

Tasting notes: The "Vive-la-Joie" cuvée is made from the cellar's finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blends. The cuvée is aged for 10 months in stainless steel vats and 5 years on laths. The nose reveals a combination of pastry notes and white flowers. The aromas are clean and elegant. On the palate, the attack is straightforward, with creamy bubbles. We find a combination of dried fruit, white fruit and spice aromas. We finish our glass with good length. A gourmet crémant that beckons with a meal.

Appellation: Crémant de Bourgogne

Dosage: Brut

Price ex-cellar: €14.90

Score: 90/100

Website: WWW.BAILLY-LAPIERRE.FR

• Domaine Wach, Brut nature 2014

Domaine Guy Wach is located in a small medieval village, Andlau, not far from Haut-Koenigsbourg. Currently comprising 8 hectares of vines, including 1 classified as a grand cru, the estate is run under conventional viticulture.

Tasting notes: This magnificent Crémant d'Alsace from Domaine Wach is made from a blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay grapes. The cuvée is then aged for 70 months on laths. Production is limited to 98 magnums per year! On the nose, you have the impression of having a fine champagne in your glass. But don't be afraid to decant it to bring out its full potential. Yes, you can decant champagne. On the palate, it's fresh, well-balanced and fine. We distinguish buttery notes and fresh fruit. The bubbles are elegant and we appreciate the very good length. In short, a very fine crémant that was an obvious choice during our tasting. A perfect accompaniment to any festive meal or aperitif.

Appellation: Crémant d'Alsace

Dosage: Zero dosage

Price ex-cellar: €66.15

Score: 89/100

Website : http://www.guy-wach.fr/

• Michel Tissot & Fils, Blanc brut 2015

Présentation du domaine: Michel Tissot & Fils is a Jura wine merchant managed since 1995 by Henri Maire. The vines are grown using conventional methods.

Tasting notes: This 100% Chardonnay is first aged 5 months in vats, then 36 months on laths. The nose reveals notes of evolution with a hint of oxidation. We discover flavors of dried fruit, apricot, honey, apple and pear, to which caramel is added. This complexity is repeated on the palate, with lovely bubbles and balance. The length, however, is a little short. An excellent Crémant, reminiscent of certain yellow wine pairings.

Appellation: Crémant du Jura

Dosage: Brut

Price ex-cellar: €11.90

Score: 89/100

• Sieur D'Arques, "Toques & Clochers" 2017

Estate presentation: Sieur d'Arques is located in Limoux, 25 km south of Carcassonne, on 1578 hectares. It is one of the leading sparkling wine producers in the Limoux AOC. The vines are grown using conventional methods.

Tasting notes: Toques & Clochers is a crémant made from a blend of chardonnay, chenin and mauzac. The cuvée is then aged for 30 months on laths. On the nose, aromas are subtle, dominated by citrus fruit and notes of evolution with hazelnut. On the palate, aromas are fresh and refreshing, with airy bubbles. We find the same aromatic framework as on the nose, with the addition of brioche notes. The finish is long and mineral. Good value for money for the holidays.

Appellation: Crémant de Limoux

Dosage: Brut

Price ex-cellar: €16.20

Score: 89/100

Website: www.sieurdarques.com

• Domaine Wolfberger, Chardonnay 2018

Présentation du domaine: The Alsatian cooperative Wolfberger brings together 420 winegrowers over 1,200 ha of vineyards and 15 promoted grands crus. The vines are HVE-certified.

Tasting notes: This crémant brut from Wolfberger is vinified in stainless steel tanks, then aged for 10 months in oak barrels. On tasting, this 100% Chardonnay crémant develops aromas full of freshness on the nose, marked by white and yellow fruits. We also noticed some brioche flavors due to barrel aging. On the palate, the bubbles are fine, elegant and well-balanced. The finish is long, with hints of iodine. We're salivating over a second glass.

Appellation: Crémant d'Alsace

Dosage: Brut (6 g/l)

Price ex-cellar: €13.95

Score: 89/100

Website: www.wolfberger.com

• Domäne Vincendeau, "Zeitlos" 2018

Estate presentation: Domäne Vincendeau, founded in 2014 by Liv Vincendeau, a German-born winemaker, is based in Rochefort-sur-Loire. It is certified Demeter (biodynamic viticulture).

Tasting note: The "Zeitlos" cuvée brings together the press hearts of the chenins from the 2018 harvest. The wine is then aged for 36 months on laths. The nose is highly complex, with jammy aromas of apple, pear and a hint of butter. The palate is vinous, with lovely complexity and pastry notes. Very pleasant length on the palate. The only reservation is that the bubbles are too present and lack a little finesse. A gourmet Crémant to be enjoyed with relish at Christmas dinner.

Appellation: Crémant de Loire

Dosage: Brut

Price ex-cellar: €50

Score: 88/100

Website: www.domaenevincendeau.com

How are the wines rated?

The 100 crémant cuvées were tasted and judged blind by a committee of three tasters, who rated the wines according to the following criteria: Appearance, complexity on the nose (intensity, quality, etc.), richness of aromas on the palate.), richness of aromas on the palate (persistence of aromas, length on the palate, etc.) and overall harmony.

The tasters :

Thanks to Justine Knapp (wine journalist and taster), Laëtitia Gautheron (wine merchant and manager of Le Vingt-Deux, in Montreuil) and Jérôme Peleyras (wine journalist).