Do you know the history of the pepper mill?

Has there ever been a recipe without pepper? Slipped into the pockets of Alexander the Great, imported from India at the pace of indolent caravans, then tossed around in the holds of Vasco da Gama, this round, slightly dented grain is ingrained in the genes of every cook. Apicius called it the king of spices; the Middle Ages elevated it to the rank of social marker, to the extent that a Venetian family's wealth was measured by its stock of pepper. It wasn't until the opening of the spice route that pepper became the third most widely consumed food in the world.

And the famous Peugeot pepper mill?

Over the centuries, the way in which this precious grain was processed evolved. As palates evolved, so did the tools used to grind it and deliver its hot, pungent, herbal flavours. In Antiquity, what worked for wheat - the friction of two stone millstones - also worked for crushing spices; later, the pestle fulfilled its function perfectly. The rotating movement of the wrist wedges the grains between the hollow and the full, sculpting the grind quite precisely. But the era of industrial development was quick to move into this niche. In 1810, two brothers, Jean-Pierre and Jean-Frédéric Peugeot, transformed the family mill in the Doubs region into a foundry. They made steel ribbons for crinolines and springs for the clockmaking industry, waiting until 1840 to bring out the first coffee mill and, thirty-five years later, its little brother, the first table-top pepper mill, known as the "Model Z", still in production today. Made of plain white porcelain, it was soon to be clothed in silver-plated metal or bakelite. Its successor, the "Model Y", is used upside down. In 1890, the family split, with automobiles on one side and tools and mills on the other.

In the meantime, there were other manufacturers of automobiles and pepper mills. The spice now has its grand crus and its noses, intractable when it comes to choosing their tool. Choosing a mill is like choosing a knife - it's sentimental. For designers, the utensil is an inexhaustible source of inspiration, and with good reason: the object doesn't just sit in the kitchen, it also takes pride of place on the table. To preserve its fragrance and strength, pepper is never the American star, but always the highlight. It's the final touch before heading off to the dining room, and a little something extra that everyone doses according to their taste for bite. As you hand the pepper pot to your neighbor, you're not only passing on the good stuff, but also Phu Quoc, Kampot, Penja, Sarawak, Cubebe, Malabar, Sichuan... A little shot of travel in a cloud of excitement.

Our favourite selection of pepper mills

It's non-negotiable: some swear by the authentic mechanical mill, others prefer the modernity of the electric. Wooden or alloy, the important thing is that it suits your hand. Here's a small selection of classic and fun models for peppering with gusto.

1. State-of-the-art technology. This carbon electric mill runs on a lithium-ion battery. "Line Electric, Peugeot, 89.90 euros
2. Elegant. A simple cylinder with grooved aluminum ring. "JOTA", De Buyer, 60.90 euros
3. Mischievous. Designer Thomas Defour has had fun drawing friendly little robots in cheerful colors. "PM01", 13 Desserts, 130 euros
4. Eco-designed. A beautiful use of Atelier Hugo Delavelle's wood scraps. "Garenne", in eco-certified oak, walnut or beech, with ceramic mechanism, Atelier Prosper, 78 euros
5. Iconic. Signed by designer Ettore Sottsass, it grinds pepper, salt and spices. "Twergi", in natural beech wood (black, red or green), Alessi, 125 euros

This article is taken from Gault&Millau, le magazine #3. Find the latest issue on newsstands or in our online store.