48 hours on the island of Groix

"He who sees Groix sees his cross", or "sees his joy" as the saying goes, taken up or invented by, among others, Chateaubriand. Sailors returning from long voyages had every reason to rejoice when they saw the promise of a nearby continent. Sometimes, they were even lucky enough to stop off here, as is the case today with the 200,000 annual visitors who come to disturb the peace and quiet of the 2,000 inhabitants. Rest assured, this influx is regular, but concentrated in summer, and does not excessively disturb the lives of the Groisillons, spread over the 17 villages that make up the island. The island's modest size (8 x 4 kilometers) encourages visitors to come without a car (a dissuasive fee is charged for the few vehicle spaces on the crossing boats) to make the most of the walks. Bike hire is easy and inexpensive, hitchhiking works very well out of season, and every corner of this island - with its flatness and mountainous terrain - has its own charm. Signposted footpaths point out the sights: the Trou de l'Enfer, the Pointe des Chats, the Francis Le Bail nature reserve (80% of the island's surface is in a Natura 2000 zone) and the most beautiful beaches, Locmaria and especially the Grands Sables. Along the way, you'll discover menhirs and dolmens, the lighthouse and tumulus of Pen-Men, Port-Mélite, Pointe du Grognon and peaceful villages. Each season has its own botanical attractions - flowers in spring, golden leaves in autumn - but whatever the season, the villages retain their authenticity and their secrets. Most of the commercial activity is concentrated in Port-Tudy, where you disembark from the mainland, then in the village, which everyone calls Groix rather than Port-Tudy, 800 meters from the port, accessible after a short climb. While the essential tourist itinerary includes numerous nature walks, it's just as important to get to know and frequent the island's lively spots, starting with its bars and terraces, such as Ti Beudeff, halfway up the hill from the port towards the village, a classic spot for a pint of the island's beer and a bite to eat; the Triskell, a little way out of town, a favorite haunt of locals who meet there for (very) long aperitifs, music evenings or matches; or the Bar de la Plage in Locmaria, which also offers much appreciated food and drink. Local production is important and everyone benefits from it: the sea, of course, with its natural products and smoked meats, the beer, and don't miss the Saturday morning farmers' market in the village market hall. And if you want to look chic and partisan, come back to the mainland in a GX590 garment - sold in the village and in Lorient, its name refers to the maritime district of the former GX tuna boats, to which the island's zip code is attached - such as a tuna jacket, sweatshirt or even charentaises.