Rolland

Rating: 12.5
Author: Gault&Millau

22410 PLOURHAN

12.5/20
Gourmet Restaurant

10 PHOTOS

Chef: Pierre Bonnefont
Cooking: French | Local | Seafood
Services: Garden | Terrace
Style: With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The Bonnefont brothers didn't succumb to the call of the sea (so close!). It was the call of the countryside that was the strongest! We're at the bottom of a small valley where a stream babbles by. After extensive renovation, the old flour mill, immersed in nature, has been given a new lease of life. From the terrace, there's a breathtaking view of the greenery, greenhouses and vegetable garden... Emmanuel's estate supplies the kitchens, where Pierre (formerly of Éric Guérin's La Mare aux Oiseaux) officiates. The kitchens open onto the vast, particularly bright dining room, with its large bay windows, beautifully bluish floor, light-colored walls and slightly industrial décor. There's no meat here. It's simply banned from the menu! The inspiration comes from plants and seaweed. Take, for example, the white asparagus, still crunchy and marked by fire, combined with walnut, goat's cheese, mandarin orange, shiitake and miso broth... A kaleidoscope of fresh, precise flavors. To follow, an aiguillette de saint-pierre well enhanced by carrot and fennel, ensuring a fine balance of flavors. In a simple yet pleasantly light vein, dessert takes the form of an Italian cookie softened by a yoghurt siphon and galvanized by tangy citrus notes (lemon cream and Corsican pomelo sorbet). The relaxed front-of-house team is committed and extremely helpful. The wine cellar remains modest, but the selection, which remains well-priced, is very well put together: anjou from domaine Ogereau and Patrick Baudouin; muscadet from domaine Lieubeau; châteauneuf-du-pape from domaine de Villeneuve; mâcon chaintré from domaine Cornin; IGP collines-rhodaniennes from David Reynaud; alsace from domaine Kumpf et Meyer...