The setting is pleasant, a hotel-restaurant with a long-standing reputation in the heart of the Hautes-Pyrénées, and Serge Latour's table has very little real competition in the area. It's an ideal base for sampling a cuisine that, while not extremely modern, demonstrates a real passion for fine produce. The Gourmand menu is an excellent choice, with pan-fried scallops and Tarbais bean velouté for a lovely match of land and sea, and a wild hind fillet with assertive character escorted by a generous sauce, figs and chestnuts.