A place like Christian's is timeless. In the shadow of the cathedral, the house is superb, the staging of a classic tearoom is very successful, and the savoury section, for lunchtime, deserves as much mention as the very famous pastries. The snacking is distinguished, regional and seductive: dandelion salad with wild boar ham, poultry tatin with spinach, ricotta ravioli with goat's cheese, baeckeoffe and even a vegetarian falafel couscous. Polite, well-trained service.