From a bistro offering simple, wine-fueled pleasures—with Ospital charcuterie, Galician preserves, and salmon sashimi— but which goes a step further in its service, with its cheerful welcome, its pleasant little terrace, and a few more ambitious dishes, such as the veal steak with eggplant caponade and porcini mushrooms or the swordfish steak with white bean hummus and roasted garlic.