The daytime version of 81 rue Breteuil, Mama Kyuna is the brainchild of Maëlyss Vultaggio, who leads lunchtime service in a neo-bistro vein that's both well-traveled and accessible. Her €28 menu can be enjoyed both in the charming long room with its varnished furniture and open kitchen, and on the back patio, which is quiet and warm in summer. The menu changes regularly, with dishes always in tune with the times.