Cosy cocottes that smell of French cuisine simmered to perfection. No archaism, quite the contrary, but an open, lively place for modern nibbles against a classic backdrop: razor clams plancha with sauce vierge and pistou, snails, langoustine ravioli, ink pasta risotto with chipirons and chorizo, beef daube or pigeon en cocotte with confit legs. Good desserts, including Philippe Faur's ice creams, clever weekly menus at €22 (the cod aioli is on Fridays), lunch menus at €38. And the wine cellar is well managed, with good owners (Les Arbousiers de la Reméjeanne, for example)