On the banks of the Aure River, this is one of the city’s liveliest bistros, with its famous crooked shutter, serving no-frills cuisine that’s both simple and hearty. The dishes make the most of seasonal ingredients: a creamy vegetable soup with roasted sunflower seeds, snails with wild garlic, a smoked salmon cheesecake, Parmesan crumble and dill-infused soy oil, a rib of beef, a thin strawberry tart, macadamia nut shortbread, and toasted bread cream.