In fond memory of Jacques Rolancy, from the days of Les Viviers in Nice, we’re delighted by this return to Draguignan in a charming old house, complete with a delightful garden courtyard out back. It will take a bit more, however, to recapture the glory of days gone by; the overall experience, still very much in need of refinement—both the kitchen and the dining room—requires improvements, as seen in these stuffed vegetables, which were a bit dry and sparsely filled, following roasted sardines with pickles and pepper ice cream. The decent rhubarb dessert, the dedication of the young staff—who, though inexperienced, are attentive and kind—and the small wine list that highlights the region, despite a meager selection by the glass, give reason to believe in this spot.
Chef
