A contemporary table where Maxime Valleye offers a modern interpretation of a local repertoire. In a luminous dining room with its wise, almost classical accents, the contrast is striking with the far more expressive content of the plates. The cuisine stands out for its mastery of technique: precise cooking, well-reduced juices, clean, contemporary presentation. As for the seasonings, they are full of character, with touches of acidity or spice that energize the compositions without ever upsetting the balance. A revisited Easter pâté, with a particularly accomplished texture, illustrates this ability to modernize a traditional base. Low-temperature trout, then lacquered and burned, plays on Japanese influences with a mango-passion condiment and miso cream, in a register that is both readable and daring. For meat, the matured beef with carrots in three textures and a cocoa jus confirms this precise and committed line. The desserts follow this logic, favoring freshness, variations in texture and controlled sweetness, like the harmonious pineapple, coconut and lime combination. The cellar, well thought out, gives pride of place to the Loire while remaining open to the rest of France. In the dining room, the experience is more subdued, with diligent but reserved service. While the set menu serves the chef's purpose, the choice of a 4 to 7-course "all-surprise" paradoxically blurs the reading and attenuates its scope, as well as frustrating some customers.