Convenient and central, this modern bistro is a consensus favorite for its simple, varied and contemporary cuisine: herbed fish acras with sweet potato condiment, poached and roasted white asparagus, fried shiitake soft-boiled egg in textures, sea bream viennoise with anchovy butter and lemon beurre blanc, braised pig cheeks with spices, polenta and mushrooms. A two-tiered menu (starters at €12 or €16, main courses at €18 or €24, desserts at €6 or €9) for a respectable result from all points of view, including the smiling, helpful service. Serious cellar with a wide choice of wines by the glass representing the region.