As the years go by, La Lieutenance remains a go-to spot thanks to the overall quality of its cuisine, a varied menu that caters to most tastes, and professional, well-executed service. No major surprises, but the dishes are consistently well-presented: squid stuffed with piperade, roasted John Dory fillet with Nantes butter, Corsican lemon, and risotto; seared duck breast with port and grape sauce; and a thin apricot tart with apricot and rosemary ice cream…