The house isn't getting any younger, but fortunately it has a large following of regulars who come for Bruno Didierlaurent's heartfelt and passionate work. The menu has its noble dishes, particularly during the hunting season, with pavé de biche, celery and trumpets, or parmentier de sanglier à la truffe fraîche (wild boar parmentier with fresh truffles). The menu of the month, always well conceived, for €39, is a good deal: caillette de cochon et foie gras, légumes moutardés; filet de maigre poêlé, risotto à l'orange, jus aux étrilles; tarte mangue et fruits exotiques. There's also a good lunch menu, by the slate, for €24.