An unassuming street corner above the Place du Martroi, a pretty, contemporary restaurant with plates that are refined and sophisticated enough to convince most, in a spirit open to the world: salmon gravlax and squash, pork wontons with ginger, poultry broth and sesame, cauliflower with green pepper sauce and falafel, azuki jam pancake with matcha ice cream in a well-constructed menu at €41.