This is a spot for the discerning Parisian who knows where to go and doesn’t mind the relative discomfort or the noisy atmosphere. People are quick to use the informal “tu” form of address; outside, people drink and smoke, savoring the chic simplicity of beautiful Dupuch oysters, impeccable white asparagus with gribiche sauce, a fillet of pollock with spelt risotto, and delightful shrimp ravioli—despite a flavorless shellfish broth with pistou. The wine cellar is solid, with reliable selections.
Chef
