In the Carré d'Or, this multi-faceted establishment (four in ten years) now offers all the symptoms of modernity. Start with cocktails for a romantic candlelit dinner, then go on to share foie gras crème de girolles, maki en croque béchamel sauce with soubressade, and the cumulative spirit of the dishes has that canaille chic air that so appeals: pavé de loup en croûte de miso beurre de cacahuète et caou-fleur, joue de boeuf flan de maïs choclo rôti cancha et chips de tortilla... Desserts in the same vein, tartelette banoffee, ananas mariné gingembre confit lousse coco..