Julien Lemarié was one of the first in the city to impose the imposed, hidden menu, and he's doing very well. Regulars enter with their eyes closed, some have reserved at the counter to be in direct contact with production, and newcomers adapt blindly. In this personal universe, the chef finds the confidence of all, starting with himself, to deliver a cuisine that looks to the Rising Sun, full of imagination and panache. This adventure into the unknown costs €60 or €80 at lunchtime, and €140 in the evening. The cellar is highly eclectic, featuring winegrowers to be discovered in France and beyond.