All fire, all flame! It's a very personal score that Julien Lemarié has been interpreting for some time now, with the same passion and quiet strength. Using products that are scrupulously sourced as close to the source as possible, he creates beautifully balanced dishes in which breathes of freshness and bursts of heat mingle intimately. It's also a voyageur cuisine inspired by Japan. Vegetables play a key role. The superb red tuna, for example, is aptly paired with cucumber and tomato, while an invigorating seaweed infusion adds a touch of panache. For their part, mussels are subtly smoked and combined with beet and carrots delicately seasoned with turmeric. The maritime voyage then offers a tonic black cardamom broth that welcomes a yellow pollack. Tamarind, zucchini and fig leaves are more than just figs, as are the crisp green beans barely licked by the flame of the blowtorch. The contrast is well thought-out. Barbecued, the delicious duckling blossoms in contact with the smoked eggplant and, in particular, the fermented red cabbage. Finally, two desserts provide a fresh, fruity finish, combining blackberries, shiso and hazelnuts with rhubarb, lemon verbena and sorrel. The acidity aerates the palate without ever assaulting it. The wine list happily takes a variety of routes, even beyond our borders. Sake is an attractive alternative. Natural, precise and attentive service.