Where Gravelier once stood, this deserving eatery has made its mark and built up a clientele on the Paul-Doumer side. Thanks to tight prices and a €26 menu that's a little boilerplate, but quite defensible: chickpea salad with Bordeaux grattons, fresh cod pavé, carrot mousseline, chicken tajine, mascarpone mounted with pommes Tatin. Fast, attentive service.