Opposite Square Trousseau, Godaille's is a place to settle in without a drumbeat, but with a promise. Here, "ripailler entre potes" takes on the air of a manifesto: a lively, well-established cuisine, spiced just right, that confidently straddles the Mediterranean, Asia and the bistro. Grilled octopus, escorted by crispy chorizo and smoked yoghurt, is a real highlight. The lemon crispy rice clatters in the mouth, the lemon-basil tartlet vibrates under a Vietnamese pepper. In the glasses, natural wines chosen with tact and sincerity. No showboating, just an address that gets straight to the point, and for €50 for lunch, it's a feast of ideas.