You can walk past it twenty times without even noticing it's a restaurant. And yet, if you follow our advice and the friendly nod to Brassens on the sign, you'll find one of the best places to eat in the arrondissement, just above Saint-Lazare. Small list, small prices, and lots of fun with bonito with leek and new potato gribiche with miso, fregola sarda with squid ink, mussels and nduja, scallops with carrot and curry madras glazed vegetables. Each plate has its own identity, some generous dishes (pork chop, sweetbreads) are for two, and the service is responsive, right down to the well-stocked cellar, with a varied selection by the glass. Simple desserts, menus at €41 and €56.