Matteo Vianello has happily acclimatized to the charms of Central Brittany, a far cry from his native Italy. In a spacious room with Venetian colors, subdued lighting and glassed-in kitchens, he seduces diners with sharp dishes that combine aesthetics and flavors. There are many nods to the South, punctuating dishes of great gustatory accuracy, such as the sun-kissed gambas à la plancha with chickpeas, taggiasche olives and a clever celery ketchup. A cream of spinach, fine salsify and a beurre blanc with sauternes carry a fine filet of pollack with ease. In perfect harmony, the dessert seduces with its liveliness: orange tartlet, blood orange supremes and kiwi sorbet. In the wine section, a selection of some thirty wines, including Italian ones. Dynamic service. Two well-deserved toques.