Harry Lester's central counter is a near-identical transposition of the Quillosque in this new location in the Museum District. It compiles everything that made its predecessor so famous: one of the region's most eclectic and interesting natural cellars, market-fresh food that's a real pleasure to eat, and good humor that's always present. The counter is a little narrow and rustic, but that's the house principle, where human contact and sharing demand this proximity for everything. Plates are prepared by feel, according to the market, even if the 12:30 p.m. sell-out for the dish of the day is a little excessive. The leeks, cockles and sabayon work miracles, with their melt-in-the-mouth texture and well-balanced sauce, while the seven-hour leg of lamb with beans and jus is memorably just right, as is the crème caramel, simple and exemplary. Rare if not unique for a wine counter, we weren't offered any that day, either through forgetfulness or negligence, in any case strange in this vinothèque setting.