In a blue jewel box on the edge of Bordeaux's Palais de Justice, chef Roman Winicki orchestrates an authentic and comforting culinary score. His bistro-style cooking, with its finesse and precision, revolves around a quest for balanced flavors. The egg mayonnaise, that great classic often relegated to the rank of a simple starter, becomes here a competitive dish that could rival the best Parisian specimens. White asparagus from Cestas, married with Colonnata bacon and sage, preludes a suckling lamb entrusted with devotion to spinach and shiitake mushrooms. Delicate shavings of bonito awaken this tender tableau. The sweet epilogue, pistachio and apple ganache with raisins, seduces with its airy lightness. Service a little quickly overwhelmed, a cellar that covers all regions, a dozen wines by the glass.