A customary Parisian bistro address, almost unchanging, but nevertheless adapting its offering to suit the times. Salmon gravlax, pate en croûte or crispy crab with bisque are three very different, good-quality starters, followed by lamb shoulder, kidneys or mushroom risotto. The prices are muscular, the service perfectly honed and the "Monsieur Paul" waffle with whipped cream and Valrhona chocolate is a gourmet classic. A wide, classic and varied wine cellar, also by the glass, from €7 to €49.