Going to the Louis XIII is like going to school: to learn. In addition to the nostalgic pleasure of returning to this barely-retouched interior, Manuel Martinez's dishes are the kind that imprint themselves on the memory like master standards: lobster ravioli with foie gras and porcini cream, sea bass quenelle with mushroom mousseline and champagne glaze, sweetbreads with asparagus and mustard seed, all quickly become landmarks in your culinary heritage. So many great chefs have passed through here to be taught by the chef that this training ship is an essential stepping stone to the next class. The Signature menu at €80 is a good introduction, with tastings at €85 (5 courses) and €195 (8 courses).