Relais de la Poste

67610 LA WANTZENAU

14.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

15 PHOTOS

Chef Thomas Koebel

Cooking French | Gastronomic

Services Accomodation | Disabled access | Pets allowed | Private parking lot

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

42€ à 119€

Gault&Millau's review

14.5/20

Chef's Restaurant Set in the middle of a village that's inextricably linked with Alsatian gastronomy, this charming coaching inn, built in 1795, boasts half-timbering, a wrought-iron sign and bottle-bottom windows. In 2021, the Burrus family modernized the interior, adding elegance and color. We love its pistachio-tinted woodwork, round tables, Nordic-style leather seating and gold fixtures. This new impetus reflects the ambition of Thomas Koebel, whose technique continues to gain in precision from season to season. The cuisine of this passionate chef reveals a sincere bond with his local producers and the Alsatian terroir from which he draws his ideas. Hirsch's goose foie gras, perfectly seasoned with pepper, salt and port, with a deliciously creamy consistency, is spooned out by the chef himself. Never short of ideas, he knows how to marry products of the sea with those of the land, such as this roasted monkfish tail, firm to the bite, and this amusing sweetbread fritter, highlighted by a well-concentrated bisque. We like the vintage nod to the marrow dumplings (Märikneppfle) hidden in a ravioli that accompanies a lovely sea bass steak grilled on its skin "like a pot-au-feu". Our favorite dish? Label Rouge d'Alsace poultry supreme stuffed with foie gras, accompanied by a mini-bouchée à la reine made with the thighs and surrounded by pretty butternut, celery and broccoli peas. While some dishes earn three toques for their precision and distinction, some juices could do with a little more concentration. We end the meal on a high note with this stunning Belle-Hélène pear revisited, rated at three toques. There's plenty of attention to detail throughout the meal, including, as a pre-dessert, a delicious rum savarin cut from the table and served with a Madagascar vanilla cream. All the ingredients for a real feast are here, and the solid team in the dining room, led by Lionel Cron and Jean-Christophe Rennwald, knows how to spread good cheer, while sommelier Etienne Eyer advises on a well-stocked wine list.

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