A standout among contemporary Parisian bistros, thanks to its setting and atmosphere as well as its two Michelin stars—which, while admittedly a bit fragile, certainly didn’t come out of nowhere. Simple dishes with precise seasoning, featuring fresh, well-chosen ingredients: gravlax trout with fennel salad and brown miso sauce; sea bream fillet with peas and reduced sauce; and pavlova with citrus, mint, and cilantro granita—all adding up to a reasonable bill of around 70 €. Four- or six-course tasting menus are available for 76 or 90 €.