The name sounds like a pataterie, but don't let appearances fool you. Although the owner, a potato farmer, originally had the idea of a fast-food restaurant, today it's one of the city's new fine dining establishments, in a pleasant, sober space, with a chef who knows how to handle a well-crafted menu and plates. Simple at lunchtime, they are nonetheless well-turned out (roast hake with basil tomato fondue), and go upmarket at weekends with the salted cheesecake with melon and fresh herbs and the gastrique duck fillet, before the red fruit tart. A first toque.